Forward Progress!!!

Well after almost 6 months of very little progress to report, I'm happy to say we had a very productive holiday weekend in the shop. Oh yeah, happy July 4!!!

Team Sarah Maggie and Mikey J back at it in the shop!

First order of business, however, was to fix our propane grill in preparation for Oshkosh later on this month... the hinge had some kind of cheap and terrible rivets holding the cover together, and it had come apart sometime last year. So, it seemed like a perfect project to fire up the rivet gun for the first time in quite a while:

A couple AN470AD4-4 and we're back in business... first rivets set in quite a while!!

Alright, now on to the fiberglass stuff. I've been wanting to get my center console and throttle quadrant up and going, so the first thing I wanted to do was put the throttle friction lock recess back into place. I did this by marking the center point of the friction lock stud, and drilling a 2.5" hole using a hole saw. Then, I took a scrap piece of 1/2" styrofoam and cut a hole out of it as well (using the hole saw with the drill in reverse):

Throttle friction lock recess

I took a second piece of styrofoam and glued it to the back of the first piece, and taped it into place behind the hole I cut in the console. After a quick layup session and some sanding, drilling, and cutting, I had this piece:

Throttle friction lock, with quadrant mounted into place

Nice!! Nothing like taking some time off from building and getting back into the swing of things with a successful first project. Next, it was time to tackle the cabin cover. We've got a couple things going on simultaneously with the cabin cover: (1) The A-pillars are nearly done after months of "5-minutes-at-a-time" work sanding and filling; (2) The B-pillars will be closed in much like the A-pillars, but that effort is just getting started. Sarah has volunteered to take charge of this task (in fact, that's what she's doing in the top photo in this post) and I fully expect them to come out better than the A-pillars that I did; and (3) The overly-complicated overhead console. While I'm happy we're taking this route, I cannot overstate the amount of extra work that "rolling your own" requires versus buying, say, the Aerosport overhead console out of the box. I think by the end of this build I'm going to be Aerosport's #1 sales rep, even though I've bought only a small handful of their products compared to what they have available :-)

So now that the ducts are pretty close to done, it's time to build up the rest of the overhead, which will contain lights, switches, and a 4" speaker. I spent a lot of time trying to figure out what the best design would be for this, taking into consideration function, headroom, and aesthetics. I came up with this hourglass-shaped design which I'm super happy with how it turned out:

The hourglass-shaped cutout for the overhead console

The front two vent pads are visible at the bottom of the photo above. Working backwards from there, the idea is to have the vents "flow" visually into the area immediately behind, where there will be two eyeball spot lights. The center area will be raised slightly, approximately 5" wide and have an access cover containing a few switches and hiding some wiring. Moving further back, there is a mold to put a flush-mounted 4" PA speaker in the ceiling. I'm planning on using a Visaton R10S speaker with a black wire mesh grille. It *should* look pretty slick when it's done.

Moving further back from the speaker is the set of rear vent pads, which I've noticed I placed quite a bit farther forward than where they are in the Aerosport overhead console. From my mockups and measurements, these will be directly over the knees of the rear seat occupants, which is where I envisioned to be the best place for them. Maybe they are better further back? Oh well, too late to change that now. Lastly, there will be another area for two more eyeball spot lights for the rear seat occupants.

After mocking everything up with pink foam, I had an idea to try something different to fill in all the gaps and round off all the transitions: Great Stuff spray foam. We've dabbled with it plenty in the past, but this is the first time I'm using it for mold-making. I laid down a sheet of plastic film and got to work:

Using spray foam to fill in the gaps, and bucking bars to hold everything in place

Side view of the current state of affairs

Now to let the foam cure and get to sanding it all back down again!