Wings

Deburred the L wing ribs for bottom skins, and all four bottom skin wing box stiffeners. This EZ-Burr makes things about as simple as possible... still, a thousand holes is a thousand holes, and it still takes some time. It definitely isn't exactly an edge-of-your-seat kind of activity. Good news is, the ribs and stiffeners are all done now, just need to do the skins themselves.

Once that was done, we shifted back to reviewing everything left to do on the tanks. We realized we still had to attach nutplates to the Zee attach brackets. There are a total of 36 nutplates that need to be installed, which is a perfect task to bring into the living room and do while you're watching TV and sipping a tasty beverage. So, that's what we did, and where we left off for the day. Still looking like Saturday will be a good time for baffle installation... stay tuned!!

Fuel Tanks

We're getting so close to being done with the tanks I can smell it! Or maybe that's just the proseal, acetone and MEK. Anyway, whatever it is we're almost done. Tonight we soldered in the connectors for the capacitive fuel sensors and rough-installed the Stewart Warner float fuel senders. Bending the float arms was a little trickier than I imagined it would be, because the floats have to clear both the upper stiffener and the vent line-- there isn't much more space there than the width of the float itself. Additionally, on the R tank, where the float attaches to the rod there is a 'barb' on the rod that could potentially catch on a rivet, sticking the float in the "up" position. This would be bad for obvious reasons, so I was forced to put an extra "Z" bend in the rod on the right side to ensure it would stay clear. The extra bend changes the geometry slightly between the up and down positions, so I may try and replicate that bend so both sides behave the exact same way. For now, here is the position and measured resistances for both floats in the full and empty positions.

R tank empty - 246.4 ohms

R tank full - 30.4 ohms

L tank empty - 256.5 ohms See Update 5/3/2015

L tank full - 56.4 ohms See Update 5/3/2015

Seems ok to me, except the geometry in L tank (without the exta Z-bend) doesn't allow the sensor to swing all the way to the "full" position, resulting in a slightly higher resistance (56.4 ohm) than the desired 30-ohm. The R side with the extra Z-bend came out perfectly, so I'm thinking we'll be adding that same bend to the L side.

Otherwise, once that was done we got out my new favorite tool, the EZ-Burr, and started deburring the wing ribs for the bottom skins. Got all the way through the R wing!

Tomorrow we'll probably deburr the L wing and get everything ready for baffle installation... looking like Saturday will be the last day we see the inside of these tanks!

Wings

We got TONS of work done today, but it's kinda funny how it feels like things don't really look any different. Because of that, there really aren't any useful pictures from today's work, but here is a list of the things we accomplished:

• Finished fabricating the mount for the SafeAir1 pitot mast
• Drilled and installed nutplates for electrical grounding and to mount the GAP28 pitot controller
• Deburred, dimpled, and primed the inside of the L/R wing gap fairings
• Deburred and countersunk the necessary holes on the wing and top skins for the gap fairings
• Riveted the four gap fairings into place
• Attached the leading edges to the wings (they had only previously been clecoed into place). Still need to rivet the top side edge rivets, should go pretty quickly tomorrow.

My hands got an awesome workout today with the squeezer, with all the dimpling and riveting. I still haven't invested in a pneumatic squeezer, and I don't think I will... it's a good workout doing it manually! Anyway once we finish riveting the top part of the leading edges to the wings, we will "honestly" be all the way through the plans up to our current state with the fuel tanks, which itself is pretty close to being done.

Fuselage kit is supposed to be shipped out sometime next week.... NO PRESSURE!!! :-)

Wings

While we wait for our connectors to arrive from Digikey, we decided to take the opportunity this weekend to switch gears a bit and focus back on the wings themselves. The bottom skins and gap fairings have already been final-drilled, but not yet deburred, dimpled or primed. Also, at some point we need to build our custom wiring harnesses for both wings. That sounded like fun work for a Saturday morning, so I got out the box of Tefzel wire I'd slowly been stockpiling:

I have a love/hate relationship with terrible puns.

The box actually contains spools from three different suppliers: Allied (the company on the box), Aircraft Spruce, and then I also have a collection of wire (mostly multi-conductor shielded) that a friend "procured" from the scrap pile at his previous employer. I'm actually really excited about the latter, because that wire is actually the same stuff they use on the big jets like Boeing and Airbus for custom and aftermarket upgraded systems. So someday I'll be able to say that some of the wiring in our plane came off the same spool as what some uber-rich dude is flying around with in his personal (and highly tricked-out) Boeing 767. Yeah, that's actually a thing. A tricked out, personal B767. I didn't believe it at first either.

Anyway, I'm getting off track. A while ago, I had drafted a schematic of the wiring needed in each wing, and written down a netlist of wires including locations to/from within each wing, gauge necessary, and color. Now it was time to actually string this together! I've always been excited to do the electrical system and wiring for this plane, maybe second only to building the engine. I have a fair amount of prior experience designing microcontroller circuits, writing firmware, and assembling custom wiring harnesses for vehicles, both professionally and as a hobby. I have a degree in electrical engineering also, as well as certifications for Mobile Electronics installation from MECP. I'm hoping I can put this knowledge to good use during the build of this aircraft!

So, off I went with the spools of Tefzel wire, stringing various sizes and colors through the ribs accoding to the schematic, and ended up with this:

L-outboard station with nav/strobe lights, taxi/landing lights and pitot heat. Garmin GAP28 pitot controller will mount in the middle of the spar extension (gray) area.

L-mid station with stall warning, OAT sensor, and puddle light.

L-inboard station has just a puddle light (total of 3 per wing at L-inboard, L-mid-front, and L-mid-outboard).

The L wing harness as it exits through the root.

The R wing harness as it exits through the root.

R-inboard station with a puddle-light

R-mid-inboard station with aileron trim servo wiring

R-mid-outboard station with aileron A/P servo wiring (for GSA 28)

R-outboard station with nav/strobe and taxi/land light circuits.

Once the wiring was complete, it was time to pull it all back out and coil it up until it's time for final installation. When the wiring is installed permanently, it will be sheathed in expandable sleeving for extra durability and a cleaner look.

That was pretty much it for today! Tonight we had our EAA chapter 33 spring social at a nice local restaurant, which was a ton of fun. We had a former B-1 test pilot as the guest speaker, and it was really awesome to hear all the stories and experiences he was able to share! Tomorrow, we'll probably continue on the wings, and maybe get the gap fairings installed... to be continued!

Wings

Today Sarah started final-drilling the bottom skins while I was away on travel. No pics, but it's about 3/4 of the way done... that should make for an easy finish tomorrow, along with maybe another bottle of proseal... yay!

Wings

No proseal today, we'll wait until maybe Wednesday or so I think for the next round. Everything in moderation, right?

Instead, we cleaned up the shop a little bit, and I put together a small utility cart we got from HF yesterday. I think it will be nice to use it to hold parts, tools, etc and help keep clutter off the work tables. We'll see how well it works. Certainly, in true Harbor Freight fashion, this thing was... well... "interesting" to put together. The quality of workmanship for the parts in this utility cart were not exactly at the same level as, say, Van's.

Other than that, the only real work on the plane was starting to match-drill the remaining holes in the bottom wing box stiffeners, and preparing for a massive final-drilling event to get both bottom skins complete. That should happen sometime next week, I believe!


***GOTCHA ALERT***
I'm going to start a new tag on this blog called Gotchas, with this being our first installment. On Page 14-6 for the Wing rib assembly (completed by us several weeks ago), there is ONE of the 24 bolts (per wing) that requires two washers stacked on each other instead of the typical single washer. The plans only call this out with a small "2X" mentioned in the parts listing, but it is neither depicted in the graphic; nor is it highlighted, flagged, or mentioned anywhere else in the plans. In my opinion, this is an extremely easy detail for a builder to miss. They call for two washers here in order to keep the nut from reaching the end of the threaded portion of the AN3-20A bolt to be used. I missed this callout when assembling the wing ribs, and the tolerances here are so close that using just one washer will still barely snug up on the two parts (as the nut reaches the end of the bolt threads) just as you reach 25 in-lbs torque on the bolt.

Step 14-6, with the bolt in question circled

You could probably use a shorter bolt instead (like an AN3-17A) with one washer, but I think the reason Van's did it this way is so that the shank of each bolt protrudes all the way through the spar and rib flange, and the threads for each bolt begin past the rib flange. This probably helps with the shear strength characteristics of the fastener.

I doubt I would have ever caught this mistake, and I'm pretty confident it would have never been caught, had my Pitts builder friends Gary and Justin not stopped over to set a few rivets for their project and talk shop for a little while. We got into a discussion about bolt lengths, and I went over to demonstrate the way the spar and ribs had been assembled on our wings, when Gary just so happened to grab the ONE bolt (remember, out of 24) that was incorrectly done and was able to make it twist with his fingers. You can imagine my horror!

It took all three of us a good 20 minutes staring at this page of the plans, and checking our work to realize the problem. After quickly remedying the issue and dabbing an emotionally comforting extra-thick blob of torque seal on the bolt, I showed the plans to another friend of mine who specializes in engineering/installation drawings and diagrams for retrofitting the big jets (Boeing/Airbus) with electrical upgrades. He was appalled by the lack of a flag or some other highlight to point out the discrepancy for that one bolt versus the others, and recommended I contact Van's to suggest they highlight this step a little more clearly. That made me feel a little bit better, and I might just do that... but for now I wanted to at least document this finding here on the blog.

The good news here, folks (read: mom) is that I don't believe this one bolt being out of tolerance would have caused anywhere near a 'real' safety hazard for the airplane itself. With the skins riveted into place, and 23 other bolts and 81 more rivets holding the ribs to the spar, it's not as though the whole wing structure was compromised by this one bolt not being fully snug against the parts. That being said, it wasn't fastened as well as Van's engineers wanted it to be, and that is indeed not a good thing. Care needs to be taken to ensure you don't miss these kinds of details hidden in the plans, and plain and simple we failed with that here. I'd be willing to bet, though, that there's more than one RV-10 flying around out there with a missing washer in this location.

Wings

Had a few of the first spring storms roll through the area tonight and didn't feel like chancing it by embarking on a non-stop 3-hour commitment with proseal. So instead, we had a pretty easy night continuing on Section 20 with the wing bottom skins. I had previously clecoed the gap fairings into place, so we made quick work out of final-drilling all the #40 fairing-to-top-skin holes on both wings. Still need to do all the #30 fairing-to-rear-spar holes, because apparently changing a drill bit was beyond our motivation at the time.

Also, we hung the bottom skins and started clecoing everything into place. This is definitely reminiscent of the top skins!

R bottom skin starting to be clecoed into place

L bottom skin starting to be clecoed into place

Last thing from tonight was I decided to cut out the hole for the pitot mast. I have the SafeAir pitot mast from Avery tools (link here) and have also bought the Garmin GAP26 heated pitot/AOA. I've decided to mount it in the #2 bay inboard from the tip, using the outboard-most 3 rivets within that bay. The mast comes with a template that helped position everything and draw a cutout line and two drill holes in the skin, although I feel like the template was at about 95% scale of the real thing. That didn't affect much, except once I had the hole cut out I had to run another pass with the dremel to enlarge it again so the mast would actually fit. I didn't take any pics during the process (oops) but here is the final product, clecoed into place:

Pitot mast clecoed to L bottom skin, second bay from tip

Different angle of the pitot mast installed

The mast is fairly long compared to other models, but I'm not sure if I want to cut it down or not. There is certainly enough clearance to work with, and I'm figuring the farther the pitot is from the wing, the less error will be induced. Most likely we'll leave it as-is.

Probably take Friday off from building as usual, Saturday probably get through at least one more bottle of proseal, and then maybe Sunday do some final pre-baffle installation prep, including plumbing the vent line, rivet QA/redos and installation of my home-brew capacitance probes. Oh yeah, and we still have to prime the external tank parts like the zees, half the inboard support bracket, and a small handful of miscellaneous parts. Maybe we'll throw the wing gap fairings into the batch too while we're at it. I have some work travel planned early next week, but hoping to have the tanks done by the following weekend!

Fuel Tanks/Wings

No proseal today either... but I did take care of a few to-do items that I hadn't gotten around to yet. Attached all the nutplates for the fuel level sensors and tank access plates, as well as fabricated 12 small covers for the 12 small holes in the tank end ribs that the factory uses as guide holes when forming the ribs. The plans call out to do this on page 18-5 step 6. I also trial-fitted my homemade capacitance probes in the tank. They seem to fit well using three nylon screws and washers. I'll make a post about this soon, since it's a whole side-project in itself.

Other than that, did some get-ahead work starting on section 20 for the bottom wing skins. This involved mostly staring at the left wing bays and thinking about where the pitot tube was going to mount. Then I clecoed the gap fairings into place, just in case I wake up in the middle of the night and feel like match-drilling, I guess.

L gap fairing clecoed into place, inboard side

L gap fairing clecoed into place, outboard side

Stay tuned for more tank/bottom skin fun!

Wings

Had an awesome time on Thursday hosting the local EAA chapter meeting (www.eaa33.org)! Working on getting some pics from attendees, unfortunately we were both too busy to pull out the camera. It was a great turnout, had lots of great questions and excellent feedback from everyone. The crowd was a diverse mix of the "regular" chapter bums and a few more scarce chapter members, as well as some friends from outside the chapter (and even aviation) that were interested in coming to see the project. Both flight schools in the Cedar Rapids area were represented, as well as some locally renowned pilots and airplane builders-- even three other RV-10 builders (with one completed and flying)! When we get pics we'll post them here on the blog. Thanks to all who attended! It was an honor and a privilege to show you all the fruits of our labor, and it re-energized us both to keep at it!

After the meeting, we took a couple days to settle, re-organize and re-group. Last night I laid out the parts I'd need to finish putting the R leading edge together, and then this morning we were able to deburr, dimple, prime, and assemble the R leading edge. It went together just like the L side, so I didn't take any extra pictures. I did run into a snag with the landing light assembly though. Because of the way I put the cross-supports in, it is too bulky to insert or remove the bracket through the hole in the leading edge. Although I could put it in there before riveting the leading edge on, it would then be "sealed" in there forever, and I'm not a huge fan of that idea. I need to come up with something else. I'm going to bench that project for a while, but I'll need to re-fabricate some kind of mount for the landing lights later. It will be a great rainy day project!

The only other thing we did was assemble the stall warning switch and assembly, which has a surprisingly high number of tiny parts, including 22 washers, 3 little screws, the microswitch/flapper, and the mounting plates. Again, forgot to take a picture, but here's the diagram:

After this was all assembled and installed, we clecoed both leading edges to the wings, and put everything in the wing rack. We'll rivet them on to the spars soon, but we just want to take a few days to make sure we didn't miss anything and have to take them back off for some reason... once they're on, they're on. The wing rack is working out as an excellent storage solution, and everything is really accessible and mobile.

Looking good! Hopefully, tomorrow we will be able to start on the fuel tanks.

Wings

So we decided to invite our local EAA chapter to our house this Thursday for our monthly meeting, and of course that has caused us to needlessly put undue pressure on ourselves to get to a good, clean stopping "show-off" point for the group. I was hoping to have both leading edges done, but at this point it's looking like maybe just one will be ready. No biggie!

Started tonight off priming the L leading edge and riveting the assembly together. It actually went fairly well, I didn't have to drill out a single rivet! (I know, I just jinxed myself for later). Here's the leading edge all put together:

The L (outboard) leading edge, as it will eventually appear on the plane! See the landing light cutout on the end.

Inboard side of the L leading edge, this is where the fuel tank attaches. Still need to attach nutplates (and a fuel tank!)

The rivets came out pretty well!

Underside of the L top skin. Can see stall warning access hatch (inboard) and the landing light cutout (outboard)

Inside of the leading edge, outboard bay

Inside of the leading edge, inboard looking outboard. Note the spar cutouts, getting progressively smaller as you go outboard.

Then in other news, WE FINISHED RIVETING THE TOP SKINS! Wow that took a while. Sarah came out to help rivet the ones on the R main spar (she's on prep duty for the EAA meeting), and then I finished the two rear spars by inserting all fifteen million rivets along each line and holding them in place with rivet tape. Then I just started in the middle of each inboard/outboard skin and worked toward each side, eventually doing the lap joint between the two skins last. The rivets were all pretty easy, except for the six or so inboard-most ones on each wing, where there are two layers of spar doublers coming up to cover the space you'd want for your bucking bar. Using the wedge-shaped bar was critical here, and it had to be held just perfectly or else it would skip out of place and fail the rivet. Had to drill out two or three before I got it right. I think by the time I was done with it all I had the system all figured out though. Funny how that happens.

No more clecos!!!! L top skin riveted, inboard side

L top skin riveted, outboard side

R top skin riveted, inboard side

R top skin riveted, outboard side

The most difficult ones were to the far right (and beyond) on the picture, where the spar doubler comes up to interfere.

L top skin outboard looking inward from the rear spar

I took a few minutes to play quality control with all the rivets, running my hand up and down each row feeling for rivets that were sitting proud. Only found three or four between both wings, and fixed them in short order by either zapping them quickly with the rivet gun and a bucking bar, or drilling them out and replacing. Looking good so far! We managed to only put one ding in one skin, between both wings and surely well over 1,000 rivets, but I'll never tell you where it is... ok fine, it's in the middle of the R wing walk, and it's not even that bad of a ding. That actually works out, because that whole area will eventually be covered with that black non-slip traction stuff. If we had to have a ding, I guess that would be the place to have it!

Of course, now that I had a completed leading edge and a completed wing top skin, I had to attach them together!

L Leading edge clecoed to L wing

L wing with leading edge clecoed into place.

With that, it was time to call it a night. We might do a little more assembly work tomorrow, but most likely we'll just be on cleanup duty for Thursday's meeting. Might not be any more blog posts until the weekend. Until next time!

Wings

Primed all of the leading edge skeleton parts, as well as deburred, dimpled and scuffed the L leading edge skin. Struggled a bit managing the awkward curved skin around the dimpler but eventually got it all dimpled without any dings. Also continued riveting the top skin, finished bucking all rivets that couldn't be gotten with the backrivet set, as well as all the rivets along the main spar on the L wing. Still need to do the main spar on the R wing, as well as both rear spars. Wow this is a lot of rivets!

No pics today since everything still looks pretty much the same. I promise I'll take some pics tomorrow :-)

Wings

Another full day of (non)exciting work on the wing! Spent most of the morning and afternoon deburring, scuffing, and dimpling ALL the leading edge parts for both sides. The plans call for you to only final-drill the spar-to-nose rib holes as it is being installed, but I figured it might be better to do that drilling now before priming and assembly of the leading edge. Plus, we wanted to see what the nose ribs look like when attached to the wing :-)

L nose ribs clecoed to the main spar

R nose ribs clecoed to the main spar

First time we really get to see the airfoil shape of the wing!

We finished the day off by continuing with some top skin riveting. In a burst of motivation and productivity, we got ALL of the rivets that could be back-riveted done for both wings! We also installed the rivets and nutplates on the inboard side of each wing. Now all we have to do is go back over the skins with the conventional flush rivet set and bucking bar and complete the remaining ~200 or so rivets. Exciting times!

Still to-do list for top skins and leading edges:

• Finish bucking top skin rivets that could not be back-riveted.
• Deburr and dimple the leading edge skins
• Prime leading edge parts and skins
• Assemble leading edges
• Install leading edges to wing

Wings

Sarah had to work today and has some family plans later on, so I decided to continue with the leading edges myself, and then I think tomorrow we'll finally get around to continuing/finishing the top skins.

First, the brackets for the landing lights had to be fabricated. An annoying thing about the Duckworks kit that I discovered was that because I got the lampless kit, I didn't get any instructions other than the two templates (skin and rib) and a very rough sketch that shows how it's all supposed to go together. No big deal, but it required figuring out which rivets were for what, and where the nutplates go, etc etc. Also, the baggie that they sent containing all the rivets and fasteners also had a small roll of double-sided tape in it, which stuck to all of the parts inside, resulting in a sticky, goopy ball of rivets and nutplates that was very difficult to separate and clean off.

In order to figure out how to proceed with fabricating the bracket, I relied heavily on Tim Olson's writeup on his site (link here) which helped a ton... thanks Tim! Unfortunately, I don't have any pictures of the fabrication process, but I ended up with a very similar-looking piece to what can be found on his site with the same overall length of 15-1/2" (the distance between the two outboard-most ribs). The only difference is that my cutout in the bracket for the landing light will fit my 40W LED  spotlight instead of Tim's HID setup. I'll take some pics and post them once it's assembled again. It did come out pretty nicely, and I'm excited to see it all installed and working!

Once the bracket was made for the L side, I duplicated the fabrication process to make a mirror image bracket for the R side. Then, I started the prep work on the R leading edge by assembling the ribs, splice strip and J-channel into the skin. Final-drilled all the holes, and cut out the hole in the leading edge for the landing light. Of course, this side does not have a stall warning system, but I am electing to install an access hatch on this side too, just in case we ever need to get in there for some reason.

Unbelievably, there are zero pictures from anything at all today! Sorry about that, it was a lot of heads-down work on the landing lights and then more of the same kind of stuff  that had already been documented for the L wing, replicated on the R side.

Wings

Burned some midnight oil tonight. Instead of doing any more wing top skin work, I continued with the prep-work for the landing lights and stall warning system in the L leading edge. First thing was to cut out the hole for the light. Before receiving the kit, I had searched online for the exact dimensions of the cutout and couldn't find anything, so I snapped a photo of this:

The Duckworks RV-10 template laid over the L leading edge, outboard bay. The light can be installed in any bay, but most people opt for the outboard-most bay for a number of reasons, so I'll follow along.

The hole is 5" wide, 2-1/2" in from the rivet line. It begins about 19-1/8" from the aft edge on top, and 15-7/8" from the aft edge on the bottom. Corners are radiused approximately 1-1/4".

Here's my take on cutting out the hole: I've read a number of build blogs that talked about how scared they were to cut the hole, and then it turned out to be pretty easy. So I guess I went into this thinking no big deal, it will be really easy and take 2 seconds. Well, I guess I struggled with it more than I was thinking I would, because I ended up using a ton of different tools to get it cut out. I used a body saw, an air nibbler, a cut-off wheel, a dremel, a drill-powered sanding drum, and a hand file. No single tool was fit for the entire job, but the combination of them all seemed to do the trick. Finally though, I prevailed, without any dreaded slips or ugly nicks:

The L wing cutout for the landing light

Since I had all the cutting tools out, why not do the stall warning system too? Skipped ahead to Section 20 and began prep work for that.

Access hatch cut into L leading edge skin, inboard-most bay

Stall warning flapper cutout. This works similar to many production aircraft, with a metal tab that sticks out of the leading edge and actuates a micro switch to sound the stall alarm.

Funny sidenote about the stall flapper cutout in the leading edge: RTFI (read the instructions)! The skins come pre-punched with two very small (~3/32") holes to mark where this cutout needs to go. Step 19-2.15 says to file out the area between these holes to make the cutout. However, I missed reading the previous step 19-2.14 where it says to enlarge the holes to #10 first! So, I spent like 30 minutes with the world's smallest file, making a perfect 3/32" slit in the leading edge, thinking "man, this thing is TINY." Had to laugh at myself once it was done and how long I spent making a slit that would have to be enlarged later. Oh well.

The micro switch and components provided in the kit for the stall warning system

Wings

In a burst of motivation, we got all the way through the R wing top skin rivets that could be back-riveted! This excludes rivets along the front and rear spars, as well as the aft 3 rivets on each rib, since the rivet set doesn't sit straight on the rivets. We can either buy a double-offset back-rivet set, or just buck them normally. I think we'll just do that, unless it turns out to not work very well. So far the top skins are coming out pretty darn straight, I'd like to keep it that way if we can! We're bound to ding some part at some time though, I'm sure :-)

"Most" R top skin rivets complete! Sarah is happy :-)

R top skin, inboard looking out

Now we'll have to finish those hard-to-get rivets with a bucking bar and get going on the L wing... the end is in sight!

Wings

We got off to kind of a slow start back-riveting the top skins, starting with the right side this time. Initially, I thought it would be a good idea to insert a bunch of rivets at and hold them in place with rivet tape, similar to how we've back-riveted other parts... but then by an hour or so into this I realized it would be much easier to just cover the bucking bar with packaging tape and insert rivets one at a time as we went (by the way- this is the method Van's calls out in the plans, I was just being ridiculous and trying a different method). Anyway after an hour or so we hadn't made a ton of progress and we were both bored. This is going to take a while to get all 1000 or so rivets done on both wings. We had gotten this far though:

Day 1 of riveting the R top skins

It's a good start, but we have a LONG way still to go!

So with that, we decided to move on to the next part just for a change of pace. Skipped ahead to Section 17 and started the prep work on the L Leading edge:

The L leading edge clecoed together

Some of the ribs had to be notched out to sizes called out in the plans for clearance from the main spar.

It's a pretty basic part actually, consisting of 7 ribs, one J-channel, a splice strip and the skin. I wanted to get a jump start on it though because there are a few modifications required to install the Duckworks landing light kits we got. So, after some final-drilling we called it a night. Lots more riveting to come!